For a long time tile became the first choice of homeowners. Now, more people are installing wood floors because the way they change the look of a room. Armstrong Hardwood Floors never go out of style but the popularity goes in cycles. Hardwood floors are durable and come in various stains to match your home.

Plumbing tips aren’t hard to come by, but plumbing tips from the experts are. Mr. Rooter ® Plumbing has dedicated the space below to answering your questions with knowledge that comes from years of experience WEEKLY TIP: Common Laundry Room Sink Plumbing Problems Do you notice damp walls or floors around your laundry room sink? Check the pipes and fittings for leaks. Are there loose joints in your pipe connections? Tighten loose connections and you may stop an incidental leak without the need to call a plumber. You can also deal with small leaks from holes in a pipe by wrapping the pipe in rubber hose and applying clamps at the top, bottom, and at the source of the leak. Use plumber’s epoxy in small holes designed specifically for these types of leaks. Another laundry center problem comes from clogs. If you have a buildup of soap, lint, or hair in your laundry room sink drain or floor drain, eventually a clog will form. If you have a water shut-off valve installed on your laundry room sink, turn off the water, and remove the u-shaped pipe and look for the clog. You may need to inspect the straight ends of the pipe on either side to find the clumped hair and soap. Once the clog is removed, your drains will work normally again.

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Common Laundry Room Sink Plumbing Problems

“5 Minutes or Less”  is an on-going series dedicated to quick and fun crafts and DIY projects that you can do in five minutes or less. This segment came to being because in our busy life it was difficult making the time for the involved and time-consuming projects that I love. We would love to feature your ideas too, so don’t forget to take lots of pictures of your next “5 Minutes or Less” DIY and send ‘em our way! “5 Minutes or Less” is a little misleading on this one. What I should have said was 5 Minutes or Less…and then wait 2 -3 months! This project almost killed my patience. The first couple weeks, I checked it daily, obsessed with it miraculously being done. Now that it is, let the baking begin! My cousin told me awhile ago that making your own vanilla extract is super easy and cheap, comparatively speaking. I looked up recipes and found that it is WAY easy and quick. You do spend a bit of money up front, but it will last forever and makes great gifts. I adapted the recipe I found because the original did not add enough beans and it took much longer than it should have. Hope you enjoy making your own. Ingredients: 18-20 Vanilla Beans 32 oz Vodka 32oz Ball Jar Step 1: Gather Ingredients I bought my Bourbon-Madagascar Vanilla beans from Amazon since I wasn’t sure where else to buy them, but was very pleased. They came plump and moist which I imagine is key. I’m not a vodka drinker so I just bought a middle of the road Vodka – not too expensive but not too cheap. Finally, I used Ball jars to store the vanilla since you will need to store it for 2 -3 months in an air-tight container. Step 2: Slice the Beans Slice each bean lengthwise using a sharp knife. This is important otherwise the vodka can not penetrate the vanilla bean skin and will not infuse. The recipe I saw called for 12 beans, but after 3 months, mine still was really weak so I added more beans. Step 3: Combine Put your beans in your jar and pour in 32 oz of vodka. Step 4: SHAKE, SHAKE, SHAKE Seal the lid tight and shake those beans! Store in a cool, dry place (I put mine in the bottom of my pantry) and shake once per week to speed up the infusing process. Step 5: Divide (optional) I divided my vanilla extract using a small funnel into smaller container to make pouring easier and to give as gifts. So cute! DONE! What do you think? What will you make with your homemade Vanilla Extract As Always, thanks for reading! Don’t forget to check out our weekly  Link-up Parties on Fridays , where you can submit your own DIY projects and crafts! Our Contractors One Project Closer’s Pro-Follows are made possible by working with local contractors, and if you have a home improvement project coming up, consider one of these professional for the job.

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5 Minutes or Less: Homemade Vanilla Extract

Continuing my foray into the world of woodworking, last week I made a wooden planter box, and I’m really pleased with how it turned out. The box is functional, looks good and all the joints are nice and tight. Much like the wooden beer tote I made, if you change the dimensions, this planter box can be used for many other purposes (like a casserole dish). It was a fun woodworking project, and here’s how I put it together. Materials: 1 x 10″ x 6′ Oak 1/4″ plywood Wood filler Wood stain Polyurethane Handles Plants 10×14″ baking tray Rocks Tools Table saw Compound miter saw Pin nailer Wood Glue Sandpaper Drill / driver Step 1: Rip the 1x to Size I started this project by ripping the 1 x 10″ Oak board in half on my table saw. Since 1 x 10″ actually measures 3/4 x 9-1/4″, I ended up with two pieces measuring 4-5/8″ wide. Editors Note: A few weeks back a reader noticed that I wasn’t using the blade guard on my table saw. Even though I find it cumbersome, I’ve changed my ways and use the guard and riving knife every time now. Step 2: Route a Dado Using a 1/4″ straight bit, I routed a groove just off the cut edge (bottom) on each board. I checked the fit with my piece of plywood, and found it was suitably snug. Step 3: Bevel Cut the Bottom The sides of this planter all flare out, and to achieve that, I ran the boards through my table saw again with a 10° bevel. Step 4: Cut the Plywood to Size I’ve found in the past that making all my cuts, and then testing them out doesn’t always work. This time I cut my plywood to size (10-1/2″ x 16″) first. Next, I’ll measure the length for each side. When I cut the plywood, I kept the 10° bevel, even though it probably doesn’t make much difference. Step 5: Cut the Sides to Length I measured the plywood and added a little extra to account for the joint before cutting the sides. Each cut was a 45° miter (+/-) and a 10° bevel (+/-). At their longest point (along the top), here are the dimensions for the sides: 13-5/8″ 19-1/4″ Step 6: Glue and Nail Opposite Corners I glued and pin nailed opposite corners to make it easier to fit together. If you’ve ever worked with wood glue, you know the importance of wiping away the excess before it dries, and I used a wet paper towel immediately after nailing. Step 7: Glue and Nail Remaining Corners I spread glue in the corners and in the dado for the plywood bottom. Fitting it all together, I pin nailed the remaining corners. Step 8: Add Wood Filler Even though the joints were pretty tight, some still hairline gaps, and I used wood filler to make the joints look perfect. Unfortunately, I neglected to take a picture of the joints after the wood filler. Step 9: Sand Smooth At this point I turned the planter over to Jocie, and she began working by sanding all the surfaces smooth with 180 grit sandpaper. Wipe with a damp rag to remove dust and debris. Step 10: Stain the Wood We had some tinted wood stain from a previous project, and Jocie mixed some of the yellow and blue to make teal. She applied two coats to give it a nice, uniform look. Step 11: Add a Clear Coat To protect the wood, Jocie applied two coats of urethane. Lightly sand in between coats so remove dried, excess urethane. If sanding, wipe clear with damp cloth (not a paper towel which will leave remnants). Step 12: Install Handles Jocie wanted handles for he herb garden so it can be used year round and brought in to a sunny window when its cold. Jocie picked up some cabinet pulls, and I installed them centered on the short sides. These are bottom of the line, Walmart cheapos, but you could certainly fancy it up with more decorative handles from your local Big Orange. Step 13: Put Plants on Baking Tray Jocie put all the plants on a baking tray to further protect the planter from dirt and water. Step 14: Organize Plants Jocie bought six different herbs for the planter: Oregano, Sage, Mint, Basil, Stevia and Thyme. She doesn’t know much about herbs but thought these we good cooking basics, except Stevia which just seemed a fun addition. Step 15: Place Rocks Izzie, Lucy and I went on a walk through the neighborhood to find some medium-sized rocks. We brought home a bucket full and cleaned them off with the hose. In this picture you see Jocie organizing them around the plants. The rocks add a good bit of weight to the planter, but it is definitely sturdy and still easy to carry. Finished I think the planter looks darn good, and I’m proud of the finished product. !One Project Closer’s Pro-Follows are made possible by working with local contractors, and if you have a home improvement project coming up, consider one of these contractors for the job.

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How to Make a Wooden Planter Box

by RateHub.ca Large construction cranes sitting next to towers of concrete and glass are common-place images across many of Canada’s major city centres. Recent data suggests housing starts fuelled by condo construction is surging, despite expectations they would cool in 2012. Last April, housing starts hit the second highest output on record with 244,900 starts or 18% above industry expectations. What does this reveal about Canadians? We’re condo nuts. We can’t get enough of them, especially in markets like Toronto, Vancouver and Montreal which combined, are largely responsible for this condo construction craze. TD Canada recently polled current condo owners and individuals looking to buy a condo in the near future. The results revealed that Canadians don’t mind paying extra Loonies for a piece of condo living. TD found people are drawn to condominiums because they require less maintenance than a house and are more affordable. One in four said they were attracted to the amenities, such as the gyms, pools and party rooms associated with condo buildings. When it comes to funding the condo lifestyle, Canadians aren’t afraid to pony up the cash. One in five said they were willing to pay up to $400 a month on condo fees while an astounding 10% said they were willing to pay $600. Condo buyers from the market most associated with the craze, Toronto, were the most willing to pay, with 39% prepared to pay up to $400 in condo fees (double the national average). Although condo fees pay for such things such as security, swimming pools and window washing, they are vulnerable to rate increases. However, one in three Canadians say they already have a buffer built into their budget to account for possible condo fee increases. Unfortunately, the report did not reveal whether Canadians have also created separate buffers for potential increases to their mortgage rates . One strategy to prepare for an increase in either condo fees or mortgage rates according to Farhaneh Haque, Director of TD mortgage advice, is to utilize your prepayment options. “ You can also explore flexible mortgage options that allow you to pay more towards your mortgage when you can, then, upon an approved application, ease off on payments when you need to. This can be a useful feature in the first few months of transition to a fee increase” Condos will continue to remain an attractive option for home buyers because of their affordability relative to other housing options. Expect construction cranes to continue to grace Canadian city skylines for the foreseeable future.   Source: TD Condo Poll

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Canadians love condos

by StonePeak Ceramics If you were taking the verbal section of the SAT, one of the questions might look similar to this:  A square is to a rectangle, as ___________ is to ceramic tile. The answer of course would be porcelain tile .  Much like a square has stricter credentials, however still meets the qualifications of a rectangle, porcelain tile is just that.  While porcelain tile fits the description of ceramic tile, it takes it a step further in differentiating itself from its close relative. So what’s the Difference? What qualifies something as ceramic tile?  Ceramic tile is usually created by mixing a base of clay with different types of minerals and water.  A stoneware clay body will be fired at around 1,800-2,000°F and have water absorption between 0.5, with some even as high as 20%! Porcelain on the other hand is made out of a mixture of clay, sand, and feldspar, which is a naturally occurring mineral in granite.  The sand strengthens the mixture, while the feldspar melts, fusing together all the materials making the tile denser than a standard ceramic tile, thus stronger (30% stronger than granite!) and more stain resistant. Porcelain tile will fire at about 2,300°F.  The higher firing temperature will drive out more water, and with the feldspar melting to form a low-order glass, the tile will be far more water resistant.  Thus, the American standards for a porcelain product is that is must absorb less than or equal to 0.5% of water ( Read more about our manufacturing process ). Why the Confusion? The biggest debate over “what is porcelain tile?” is that there ceases to be one universally accepted definition.  This means that buying from overseas can be risky, as all they have to do is slap a Porcelain stamp on the side of the box before it ships and manufacturers can sell it as true porcelain. To reiterate, the American tile industry traditionally has described porcelain tile as being a practically impervious form of ceramic tile, meaning that the tile will absorb equal to or less than 0.5% of water. StonePeak takes our porcelain tile to another level as we fire each tile to absorb less than or equal to 0.1% of water, making a virtually non-permeable body.  This style is referred to as “technical porcelain” in the American tile industry. What to Take From This Article? 1)      Porcelain tile should absorb ≤ 0.5% of moisture 2)      StonePeak manufactures technical porcelain, absorbing ≤ 0.1% of moisture 3)      Porcelain tile has exceptional durability, being 30% stronger than granite 4)      Because of their higher density, porcelain tile is more resistant to staining 5)      Be wary of foreign market products as there are no universal standards Take a look at just how beautiful true porcelain ceramics can be! — For more information visit the StonePeak Ceramics blog .

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Ceramic Tile vs. Porcelain Tile

Welcome back to our latest Pro-Follow update. Last time we left off, Steve Wartman and his crew had finished installing the bathroom fan , and the previous day they had hung concrete board in the shower and Fir plywood over the subfloor. At this point, the bathroom is ready for tile, and Steve called in Rick Smith and his crew to tile the shower and bathroom floor. Rick brings over 30 years of experience, and coincidentally Rick is the contractor that tiled my master bathroom several years ago. If you enjoy our Pro-Follows and learning how professional contractors complete home improvement jobs, subscribe to our email or RSS feeds and never miss an update. Every Pro-Follow comes to you from a real job site, chock full of real pro tips. Check out our Project Guides to see all the completed how-tos. Subfloor It’s very important to have a properly prepared subfloor because otherwise, the tile will crack and come loose in no time. The goal is to provide a flat surface with minimal deflection (bounciness). You can reduce deflection by adding extra layers of underlayment like plywood or installing additional supports under the floor. Many professional tilers (like Rick) can judge a floor’s deflection by feel alone. For the rest of us, the Tile Council of America offers a standard formula called L/360. L/360 Divide the total span of the floor joists (in inches) by 360 for the maximum amount the floor can give in the middle under a live load of 40 lb./sq. ft., plus any long-term deflection due to the weight of the floor. For example, the maximum deflection for a joist span of 15′ is [15 * 12] / 360 = 1/2″. This formula is useful for most ceramic, porcelain, and hard stone. For soft-stone tile, such as limestone or light marble, the L-720 formula applies (cutting the maximum allowable deflection in half). When possible, Rick likes to verify the subfloor framing, and for joists spaced more than 16″ oc, he suggests using Schluter Ditra which is a waterproof, uncoupling membrane. He also targets at least a 1-1/8″ thick subfloor. Steve’s crew achieved that by installing the Fir plywood which is an acceptable underlayment even though Rick prefers concrete board. Plan Layout Before starting, Steve spoke with the homeowner about various tile layouts. With that input, Steve can approximate the location of features like the shower shelves and glass listello. Pro-Talk: A listello is a narrow, decorative tile that add visual interest to a wall. Pro-Tip: Shower heads are roughly 82″ off the shower pan, and most layouts avoid running decorative tile at that height. For the floor, installers often center a tile in the doorway. Steve maps out the floor and finds that a staggered layout works well because it avoids thin, small tiles around the perimeter. If that hadn’t been the case, they would have shifted the layout (perhaps centering a grout line in the doorway). Materials Thinset mortar (see below) Tile mastic (see below) Mesh cement board tape (see below) Tile shims Un-sanded grout Sanded grout Caulk (see below) Tile (see below) Thinset mortar For this install, Rick and his crew are using a modified thinset mortar which has a latex additive that makes it stickier and stronger. Modified thinset is often used for tiling walls, over plywood for better adhesion, high-traffic areas and spaces that will get wet (like a shower). Thinset comes in a powder form and is usually mixed with water. Mastic Mastic is an organic adhesive, and it’s not suitable for direct contact with water. For that reason, Rick and his crew only use it on the top-most courses in the shower. Mastic comes premixed in a tub. Pro-Tip: Rick and his crew say that using mastic for floor tile is one of the most common do-it-yourselfer mistakes. Mesh cement board tape The mesh tape used for drywall will deteriorate in contact with concrete board so it’s important to use an alkali-resistant tape. Plus, concrete board tape is stronger and mold resistant. Caulk Rick is using an un-sanded siliconized acrylic caulk that matches the color of the grout. Tile Porcelain and ceramic are the two most popular options for tile. Porcelain is denser and heavier which makes it tougher to cut and more difficult for wall installations. Regardless of the type, tiles can vary in size up to 1/16″ (even expensive tile from reputable dealers). Tools Tile cutter (see below) Nippers (see below) Level 3/8″ notched trowels Grinder Utility knife Buckets Mixing Paddle Corded drill Sponges Diamond hand pad Saw or multitool Tile cutter This is a relatively straight-forward tile job, and Rick and his crew used a tile cutter to score and snap all the tiles. They didn’t need to break out a tile saw. Nippers Nippers are used to chew off pieces of tile, and they are especially useful for making curved cuts. A good pair of nippers is indispensable, and some of these guys have been using the same pair of nippers for 20+ years. Diamond hand pad A diamond hand pad is used for cleaning up a cut edge, and they used it after every cut. Check Walls Rick started the day by checking all the walls. Rarely are walls and corners square, and Rick wanted to know where the problem areas would be. He found that some of the walls were as much as a 1/4″ off plumb. Mark Wall Center Starting on the side wall, he marked a center line, and this is where he will start laying tile. Tape Joints Rick covered all the joints with mesh concrete board tape including the joint between the concrete board and shower pan. Mix Thinset Next, he mixed the thinset in a bucket with a mixing paddle, and he mixed it thick enough that it wouldn’t slide down the wall. Cover Joints Rick covered all the joints with a layer of thinset, and he covered the drywall mud to ensure good adhesion. Mark Spread Line Starting from the shower pan and measuring up the height of two tiles, Rick marked a level, spread line that will serve as a guide for spreading thinset and laying tile. Spread Thinset Rick spread the thinset using a 3/8″ notched trowel right up to (but not covering) the spread line. Lay Tile Starting at his center line and working into the corners, Rick laid two rows of tile. Beginning in the center is important because it allows him to better conceal cut edges in the corners and it ensures a symmetrical layout. Rick pushed each tile firmly into the thinset, ensuring good coverage. He lined up all the corners and was mindful to keep all the tiles at the same depth. Pro-Tip: Check each tile for chips or defects, and clearly mark the defect before setting the tile aside. Since Rick knew the areas where the walls were not square, he “cheated” a little by opening up the joints slightly to account for the difference. Add Shims Rick used the red shims to align the tiles and make sure each row stayed level. At times he would remove a tile to add extra thinset to keep everything nice and even. Cut to Size To cut tiles Rick would scribe a line with his pencil and either use nippers or the cutter to trim the tile. The tile cutter has a small blade that scores the front of the tile. The wings on either side of the cutter pivot allowing you to press down until the tile snaps. After each cut (with the cutter or nippers), the guys would clean up the cut edge with the diamond pad. Check For Level Rick would check on last time for level before moving on to the next section. If he found anything out of line, he would shift the tiles and/or place more shims. Move to Next Section This picture shows how Rick continued that same spread line to the next section. Pro-Talk: Back-buttering refers to the process of using the flat side of a trowel to skim coat the backside of a tile, and this is another technique to ensure good coverage. For the front and back of the shower Rick started at the corner and worked toward the inside corner to better conceal cut edges. Pro-Talk: Bullnose refers to a rounded edge tile often used as a border because it does not expose a cut end. Shower Shelves Incorporating shelves into the shower is a nice feature, and Rick started the process by notching the shelf with a grinder. He cut a shallow notch just wider than the width of a tile. Next, he scribed the outline of the shelf and used that to cut the wall tile. Next, Rick put the shelf in place with a gentle slant to prevent water from pooling. Sponge Clean As he worked, Rick often cleaned the tile face with a sponge, and he cleaned his hands frequently too. Cutting Holes Rick and his crew had to cut holes in the tile for things like the shower controls. To do this, they started by measuring the location of the hole. Rick used a grinder to carefully cut a square-shaped hole, starting on the face of the tile, and then completing the cut from the backside of the tile. Decorative Stripping It’s common to add a listello or decorative stripping to make a wall of tile more appealing, and the homeowners have opted for a glass tile stripe. Rick cut the mesh backing to create pieces four rows high. At this point, Rick and his crew could not continue with the wall tile until the thinset had cured overnight. Otherwise, the glass tiles would shift as new tiles were laid above them. Floor Tile Trim Door Jamb While the walls dried, Rick and his crew started on the floors, and they began by trimming the door jambs. They used a tile to mark the height, and then cut the jamb with a handsaw. The guys also scraped away the old mortar from underneath the threshold. Clean Floor Rick used a sponge to clean the floors which had the added benefit of wetting the plywood, and that helps ensure a good bond. Mark Guide Lines He traced the outline of the air register and measured a spread line off the exterior wall. Spread Thinset Just like with the walls, Rick spread thinset right up to his line using a notched trowel. Lay Tile Floor tiles are usually separated with spacers to ensure a consistent joint. Rick doesn’t use spacers, and instead he visually sets the tile. Pro-Tip: Leave a very small joint between the tile and the shower pan. Otherwise, even slight movement can create an irritating, squeaky noise. Pro-Tip: Remove excess thinset that has oozed up between the tiles. You want the thinset at least 1/8″ below the surface of the tile to make room for grout. Finish Tiling Shower The next day, a member of Rick’s crew finished tiling the shower walls, and for the upper courses of tile he used mastic instead of thinset. Baseboard Tile He also added a bullnose tile along the wall to act as a baseboard. For the bullnose, he back-buttered each piece rather than trying to spread mastic in such a small area. Grout After the tile had set, one of Rick’s crew grouted the tile. For the shower walls, they used a unsanded grout, and they used a sanded grout for the floor. Pro-Tip: Use sanded grout for grout joints 1/8″ or bigger and non sanded grout for smaller joints. They packed the grout tightly into the joints using a grout trowel, scraping away as much excess as possible. After the grout set up, he wiped the tile with a damp sponge, cleaning it often. He also caulked all the corners of the shower (between walls, walls and ceiling, around shower pan). Pro-Tip: Grout all the tile at the same time. Otherwise, you may see a slight color variation due to moisture differences. Finished

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How to Tile a Bathroom, Shower Walls, Floor, Materials (100 pics, Pro-Tips)

by Mecc Interiors The Margaux Valet, K-16257 Though it would seem that Kohler’s Margaux collection is not new, the first time I was introduced to the fabulous valet was at this year’s K|BIS show.   I thought that it was perhaps new to Canada, but it seems that valets simply aren’t popular enough to warrant being pointed out. One of the things I love about the Margaux, aside from the absolute simplicity, is the functionality.  The hanger portion lifts off, making it moveable, while the base remains in place as an extra wall hook!  So one could install multiple valets in various areas, such as one (1) in the laundry room for steaming clothes, another in the bathroom, and as many as desired within the closet. Margaux in action.   Though it is designed as a bathroom item, I know I certainly have clients who have wanted valets in their closets but didn’t have room for a complete system.  This eliminates that problem completely. The styling is classic and the valet comes in five (5) standard finishes.

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Kohler’s Contemporary Valet

We’re back with another Pro-Follow update for the bathroom remodel with Steve Wartman and his crew. If you’re just joining us, you can read up on the progress so far at these links: Day 1: Demolition Day 2: Plumbing, Electric and Concrete Board In the introduction to this project, I mentioned that moving the bathroom fan was part of the plan. The original fan was situated on the opposite side of the shower and vented into the attic space. Steve wanted to relocate the fan so that it more effectively pulls moisture from the room, and he wanted to vent it out through a nearby soffit. Electric When the electrician came through on Day 2, he was able to reroute the electric from the original fan to the new location without pulling any new wires. This was really fortunate because that meant the wall switch was all ready to go. If that had not been the case, the electrician would have needed to fish a new cable (14/2 NM-B) from the switch to the new fan and either run a new circuit or (more likely) extend an existing circuit. Materials Bathroom fan kit (fan, ductwork connections, soffit cover, fan cover) 4″ flexible ductwork Aluminum tape Wire connector and wire nuts Tools Drywall saw Drill / driver Hole saw Utility knife Wire strippers Pliers Ladder Step 1: Cut the Hole The guys provided the general location for the electrician to pull the wires. To install the fan, they needed to enlarge the hole, and they wanted the final location adjacent to a stud for mounting the fan. After measuring the fan, they marked lines and cut out the drywall. Step 2: Trim Duct to Length The guys ran 4″ flexible duct between the fan and the soffit, cutting it to length. Pro-Tip: Cut the ductwork only as long as needed. While leaving extra length may help during the installation, your bathroom fan will have to work harder to move air through. The bathroom fan kit includes a coupler between the fan and the ductwork, and they secured the ductwork with aluminum tape. Step 3: Run the Ductwork Fortunately, the soffit is a short distant away, and after shifting a little insulation, they can push the ductwork through. Had that not been the case, they would have needed to go into the attic to run the ductwork. Pro-Tip: Run the ductwork as straight as possible to avoid restricting air flow. Pro-Tip: It’s best to run bathroom vent ductwork through conditioned space to prevent the moisture-rich air from condensing inside the ductwork. Step 4: Make the Soffit Connection and Install the Cover This bathroom vent kit includes a soffit cover with slats that open as the air is forced out. Using a hole saw, they cut a 4″ hole through the soffit. Pulling the ductwork to the opening, they secured it in place with a combination of plastic clips (included in the kit) and aluminum tape. Next, they screwed the soffit cover in place. Step 5: Wire Bathroom Fan One corner of the fan features a removable plate with a knock-out, and behind that plate are the hot and neutral wires. After removing the knock-out, Steve’s crew pushed a plastic wire connector in place and fed the wires through. They connected the bare copper wire to the ground screw, and they paired the black wires together and the white wires together. With all the connections made, they screwed the metal plate back in place. Step 6: Mount the Fan After making the hole a little bit larger, Steve’s crew pushed the fan into place alongside the stud. This fan included a few metal fins to help hold it in place, and the guys drove screws into the adjacent stud. Step 7: Install Fan Cover The last step for this install was to hang the fan cover which is secured with a pair of metal hooks. Finished

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How to Install a Retrofit Bathroom Vent Fan

Plumbing tips aren’t hard to come by, but plumbing tips from the experts are. Mr. Rooter ® Plumbing has dedicated the space below to answering your questions with knowledge that comes from years of experience. Weekly Plumbing Tip: Commercial Faucets and Fixtures Do your commercial fixtures and faucets meet requirements set by the Americans with Disabilities Act (ADA)? To be ADA-compliant, commercial faucets must be operable with one hand using no more than five pounds of force. Some commercial fixtures may be governed by height requirements, allowing proper reach and use for people in wheelchairs or assisted-mobility devices. A quick inspection of your commercial faucets and fixtures with ADA in mind could reveal a lot about how accessible your operation truly is. If you need commercial plumbing help to bring your facility into ADA compliance, call a professional right away for an on-site visit and quote on the work.

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Mr. Rooter Plumbing Weekly TIP: Commercial Faucets and Fixtures

by MeCC Interiors Porro's Chameleon Cupboard, designed by Front New from Italy’s Porro is the Chameleon Cupboard , a collaboration with the Sweden’s Front .  Like any chameleon, this cupboard is ever-changing. As Front describes it: “The new Chameleon unit is a magic volume, constantly opening on itself as the game of the Chinese boxes, changing appearance and revealing new finishes…  it consists of a central wood crate, covered by leather layers, which used as hinges, allows it to turn and be revolved, changing its colour and look according to the specific mood.” Exterior views of the Chameleon. The unit’s drawers and shelves are crafted from pear wood, perfect for stashing any of number of things around the house. The Chameleon Cupboard is on display at Salone del Mobile 2012 in Milan. The ever-changing interiors of the Chameleon.              

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The Chameleon Cupboard